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Until quite recently, it seemed there was nothing more to Northern Ireland's capital than trouble and turmoil. But today, in place of bombs, guns and hushed talk of loyalists and separatists, the only sounds you'll hear in Belfast are those of a vibrant city going about its business, and visitors remarking how very attractive, graceful and uncommonly friendly a place it is.
Situated beside the River Lagan at the head of Belfast Lough, and surrounded by hills, it's also the perfect destination to explore on foot (stopping every so often for a pint of Guinness, of course).
At the heart of the city lies the grandly domed City Hall, a logical starting point as well as first stop. From here, amble north through the main shopping district and seek out the Entries, little alleyways that are all that remains of Belfast's oldest quarter (happily, some wonderful old pubs have survived within them).
In the neighbouring Cathedral Quarter, the city's trendy arts and entertainment hub, visit Ulster Bank to see extravagant interior and don't miss a quick stop at St Anne's Cathedral.
After a riverside stroll, head south down the Golden Mile past the Crown Liquor Saloon and the Grand Opera House (both fabulous, although for rather different reasons) to the University District, where you'll find Ulster Museum, the Botanic Gardens and throbbing nightlife.
It's also possible to take a tour of West Belfast to see the famous political murals on Falls Road and Shankill Road. Or, on a different tack, you could sign up for the Historical Pub Tour - the perfect opportunity to combine the past with a pint.
If you still have time to spare, the geological phenomenon that is the Giant's Causeway, just an hour's drive from the city, is well worth a visit.