Warsaw

Brave and valiant, Warsaw is one of Europe's latter day heroes. Despite a tragic past, it has risen like a phoenix from the ashes and is today a spirited city full of history and plucky Polish personality.

In 1944 Hitler, enraged by mass civilian resistance in Warsaw, ordered its total elimination. The outcome was what General Eisenhower described as the most tragic thing he'd ever seen. By the end of World War II, over four fifths of what was one of central Europe's most beautiful cities lay in ruins.

Then began the painstaking reconstruction of the Polish capital. To the surprise even of Varsovians themselves - and despite the abundance of Communist-era concrete - the end result is quite remarkable.

Virtually all of Warsaw's sights are to be found on the west bank of the Vistula River, which neatly bisects the city. Here, the viewing platform on the Palace of Culture and Science - a 'gift' from Stalin - is a lofty way of getting your bearings. The Old Town, a blend of Renaissance, Baroque and Gothic structures rebuilt using every possible fragment rescued from the rubble, is the historic hub.

From its splendid Royal Castle, the boulevards of the Royal Way run southwards past the New Town, an array of museums and memorials, the botanical gardens and the restful waterways of Lazienki Park, all the way to the king's residence at Wilanow.

When you're not wandering wide-eyed, soaking up a sense of the past, you'll find Warsaw's got a lot more in the way of recreation than it's often given credit for.

Pursuits such as theatre, opera, classical concerts and festivals are plentiful and affordable. New restaurants, cafés, bars and clubs are continually throwing open their doors - and with no licensing hours holding you back, you might find yourself trying them all.