Cannes

Cannes often gets a bad rap for being the licentious haunt of stars, glitterati and desperate hopefuls. Not as elegant as Nice, and without the Bardot-endorsed kudos of St Tropez, this city on the French Riviera is pure hyped-up glamour. But when the carnival that is May's international film festival finally pulls out of town, Cannes is able to reveal some of its less attention-seeking charms.

Whatever the season, celeb-spotters can gorge themselves along the beachside promenade, the Boulevard de la Croisette, which is lined with some of the Riviera's grandest hotels and chi-chi boutiques. A short stroll away is the old port, whose original historic charm had made way for luxury yachts and open-air restaurants - the perfect setting for sipping a Kir Royal at sunset before savouring a bowl of the Côte d'Azur's contribution to the soup hall of fame, bouillabaisse.

While the beachfront is monopolised by hotels, a picnic on the sandy public beach can be greatly enhanced by a selection of gourmet delicacies from the Marché Forville, whose stalls are flooded with the goodness of Provence on a daily basis.

Le Suquet is the hilly old town overlooking the port. Its Musée de la Castre's eccentric collection of instruments and gewgaws from across the ages, as well as the magnificent panorama from the church tower, makes it well worth the climb.

Getting away from this indulgent city is easy. Sensual Provence starts just outside its perimeter, dotted with
medieval villages, vineyards and fragrant valleys. And a taxi-boat from the old port will deliver you to two small islands - the Iles de Lérins - where nude sunbathing, a bird sanctuary and a working monastery make for surprisingly cordial neighbours.