Zagreb

Croatia's thriving capital was once two medieval settlements perched on neighbouring hills, yet with distinctly un-neighbourly feelings towards each other.
Kaptol to the east and Gradec to the west feuded for centuries until the Turks threatened to invade in the 1500s - and it suddenly seemed a splendid idea to team up.

Today, having survived that danger and all the turmoil of the 20th century, unified Zagreb is a cosmopolitan, cultural, historical and award-winningly clean destination.

A good sightseeing starting point is Trg Bana Jelacica, the square at the heart of the city, bustling with trams, pedestrians and cafés. Over an espresso, plan your exploration of Dolnji Grad (the Lower Town), whose attractions include the Art Pavilion, the shopping thoroughfare of Ilica, and masterpiece-filled Mimara Museum.

Historical Gornji Grad (Upper Town), however, will command most of your attention. Take a short funicular ride or hike north of the main square, follow the neo-Gothic spires spiking the sky, and you'll find yourself at the disaster-prone Cathedral in Kaptol.

In Gradec, among the tiny streets and squares lit at night by gaslamp, view the remains of feudal fortifications at the Stone Gate, the multi-coloured tiled roof of St Mark's Church, and the sweeping cityscape from the top of 14th-century Kula Lotrscak ('Burglars' Tower'). North of the city is another must-see, the ornate, eclectic Mirogoj Cemetery.

Outdoor café culture is Zagreb's modern area of expertise, and in the warmer months bars, pubs and coffee houses gregariously claim the pavements. The rules are simple: pounce on a free table, order your beverage of choice, and engage in hearty discussion until long after dark.