The best place for soaking up the Yoruban atmosphere of Porto Nova, Benin's official capital, is in the thick of the chatter and clatter of the Grande Marche d'Adjara.
It's also the best place to stock up on carefully crafted local drums, baskets and pottery. Strolling on, you'll discover the other delights of the city in its fascinating colonial architecture.
The West African country of Benin is a small, unusual and little-known destination. Fringed by a coast of delightful beaches and the Bight of Benin, its interior is a combination of mountains, lush green plains, coconut groves and savannah.
Benin's history is as chequered as its landscape but, as is so often the case along this coast, it suffered the effects of the inevitable slave trade, and its main port was the focus of the 18th century's booming slave trade.
Venturing into the country involves dipping into its darkly fascinating religion, and what better place to start than the voodoo capital, Ouidah? With its bold and colourful fetishes, the Rue des Esclaves leads to the Porte de Non-Retour, a poignant tribute to the thousands of people plucked from its shores.
A few kilometres away, along the craterous potholed road, you'll arrive at coastal Cotonou, arguably the heart of Benin. Hedonists should aim for the Jonquet strip, where sparky bars and restaurants lead onto the delightful Grand Marche de Danktopa.
The charming fishing village of Ganvie is not to be missed. With its stilted houses rising from the lagoon, it is best viewed from dugout canoes. Look beneath the surface of the shallow water and you'll see the akadja, long underwater fences that are used to harvest the fish.
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