Fort-de-France can lay no claim to being the 'Paris of the Caribbean', but the boulangeries, pavement cafes, noisy markets, pissoirs and Parisian boutiques that emerge from the lush vegetation give the impression of a tropical France.
Set below the rainforests and well away from the sleeping volcano of Montagne Pelée, Fort-de-France is not a large town, but it is the hub of life in Martinique.
Visit the bustling Grand Marché on Rue Blénac packed full of exotic spices. Surrounding streets are home to myriad markets trading in flowers, fruit and vegetables, the busiest being the Marché aux Poissions (fish market) by Place Clemenceau next to the river where the fishermen unload the day's catches.
Wander through La Savane, a beautiful park where locals play intense games of dominoes, to the landing for ferries to Pointe du Bout, the birthplace of Empress Josephine, wife of Napoleon Bonaparte.
Less Caribbean spice and more haute cuisine, Pointe du Bout is a 15-minute ferry ride and a world away from Fort-de-France. Sleek yachts, pristine beaches and luxury hotels are dotted along the coastline. Inland there are charming local villages, a championship golf course and a botanical garden (Parc des Floralies).
The real charm lies beyond the towns and ports, lovely though they are, in the lush rainforests of the north and the long sweeps of white sand beaches in the south.
It's possible to do almost everything in Martinique, from waterskiing and riding to sailing, but it also offers the world-weary a wonderful opportunity to do absolutely nothing at all.
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