Tales of old-fashioned piracy, smuggling and daring raids on gold-laden galleons whisper around the British Virgin Islands like a tropical breeze. Much quieter and less exploited than their US counterparts, the islands glint like Blackbeard's jewels on the sparkling blue Caribbean, offering secluded bays and idyllic views to those who wash up on their shores. This is the real Treasure Island.
Of the 40-or-so Caribbean islands and islets making up the territory, only 16 are inhabited. Tortola is the largest, hilliest and busiest, its gorgeous bays and beaches complemented by the picturesque harbour capital of Road Town, sweeping views of the other islands from Sage Mountain, and a profusion of pubs, restaurants and live music.
Virgin Gorda, to the east, is famous for The Baths, where huge boulders scattered across the beaches have created an explorer's wonderland of intricate pools, coral ledges and grottos. West of Tortola is Jost Van Dyke, 'the barefoot island', with a laid-back lifestyle of beach cafés, pig roasts and parties to account for its nickname.
Take a water taxi or charter a boat to the flat, remote island of Anegada, a haven for wreck divers - the Horseshoe Reef encircling it has sunk 300 ships - as well as for those who like miles of sandy beaches all to themselves. If you build up an appetite from all that loafing, it's a thorny choice between traditional West Indian fare, lobster feasts, and the morning's catch of fish.
There is, of course, a risk involved in finding utopia. You may never want to leave.
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