Bilbao

Lost in the maze of medieval streets of Bilbao's Casco Viejo it's difficult to believe that you're in the same city as Spain's latest cultural landmark, the Guggenheim Museum, the centrepiece of Bilbao's renaissance. Once deeply industrial, Bilbao has transformed itself into a forwardlooking, daring, modern city while proudly retaining mementoes of its past.

Add in another handful of other cultural highlights, a reputation for her lively nightlife, easy access to the unspoiled forests, mountains and beaches of the Basque Country, and Bilbao's industrial past has been convincingly washed downstream.

Ironically more time tends to be spent staring at the titanium-clad structure of the Guggenheim Museum than the exhibitions it houses. Dubbed 'the beast' or the 'colossal Californian cauliflower' by locals, architect Frank Gehry claimed inspiration from Fritz Lang's classic Metropolis.

Overlooking a kink in the river Nervión the Guggenheim's interior decoration is as impressive as its exterior, with works covering the whole spectrum of modern art from Picasso to Warhol.

More classical appetites are catered for in the Museo de Bellas Artes, rated as one of the best museums in the country and a beautiful introduction to Basque art. More can be found out about Basque culture and history in the aptly titled Basque Museum housed in a Jesuit cloister in the heart of the old town.

Once you've had your cultural fill the nearby pavement cafes and bars provide the perfect setting to try your hand at Bilbao's favourite pastime chiquiteo - all you'll need are a few plates of tapas, a jug or two of wine, and plenty of conversation.