Arranged around a sparkling bay and two forest-clad hills, lined with beautiful beaches and jostling with bars and clubs, San Sebastián is where canny Spaniards go for their summer soirees while planeloads of foreign holidaymakers descend on the Costas to the south.
If you're after gorgeous scenery and an affluent, up-for-it social scene, it's time you were let in on one of Spain's best-kept secrets.
San Sebastián (also known as Donostia) lies in the Basque country, a mere 20km from the French border, and an easy journey east of Bilbao. Its setting, which is just about as perfect as you could hope for from a city, is complemented by an atmospheric old town teeming with restaurants and bars, a busy waterfront area and cheerful locals who indulge in such activities as swing dancing in the main square.
Guarding opposite ends of La Concha Bay, Monte Igueldo and Monte Urgull offer great walking with fantastic views, while beneath them the beaches of La Concha, La Zurriola and La Ondarreta attract swimmers, sunbathers and boardwalk strollers aplenty. From the latter, you can also swim to Isla de Santa Clara which rises dramatically from the midst of the bay.
The city has a host of cultural and historical distractions as well, which are easily browsed on foot. The museums - the neo-Gothic Catedral del Buen Pastor (spectacularly lit at night), the Baroque Iglesia de Santa María and Palacio Real de Miramar - make a fine prelude to mouthwatering Basque cuisine in the city's tapas bars and other eateries.
While flamboyant fiestas are a regular occurrence here, come in January to experience the craziest one - 'La Tamborrada', when hordes of drummers march deafeningly around town - around the clock. Take earplugs.
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