Denver might have started life as a rough gold miners' camp but today it's a slick, modern metropolis that models itself on cultured Middle America rather than Hicksville. For most travellers, however, it's not so much what Denver is but where it is that's important.
After the relentless flatness of the Great Plains, Denver's skyscrapers signal an imminent change of scenery. And what a change it is - a few miles west of 'The Mile High City' and you're ascending the mighty Rocky Mountains.
The Colorado Rockies' attractions are mind-blowing: in winter you can ski, snowboard, snowshoe and cross-country on some of the world's finest terrain at Vail, Aspen, Beaver Creek, Keystone and Breckenridge. The rest of the year it's the turn of hikers, bikers, horse riders, climbers and nature-lovers to have a ball.
There's more action than most can handle available on the 800-km Colorado Trail, which stretches across mountains, forests and rivers from Denver to Durango. Buffalo Creek Mountain Bike Area is tailor-made for two-wheel exploits, while others can rock climb in Castlewood Canyon State Park or white-water raft in Clear Creek.
If outdoor overload sets in retreat to Denver for a more sophisticated kind of R&R. It's a cultural, sociable city, bound together by 16th Street, its bustling pedestrianised artery. LoDo (Lower Downtown) holds the best of the urban action: restaurants, bars, galleries, shops and clubs, plus plenty of trendy local loft-dwellers.
But for the ultimate blend of culture and nature, head just west of the city to Red Rocks Park Amphitheater carved out of 120m-high red sandstone rocks. Beg, borrow or steal to attend a starlit performance - the 9,000-seat venue, stunning to look at and with acoustics to match, has played host to the likes of U2, The Beatles and Sting.
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