Moscow

Once Moscow conjured up images of snow falling on fairytale rainbow-coloured turrets, while shady deals and espionage went on in Gorky Park. But, the capital of the world's largest country isn't what it used to be.

Moscow has undergone a transformation nothing short of revolutionary.

Along with the marvels of the new, remain the wonders of the old. All visits should start at the heart of Moscow - Red Square.

At the south end, beckons the magical St Basil's Cathedral. Its swirling multicoloured domes are nothing less than magnificent, and it's even more memorable in the snow.

At the other end of the square lurk memories of something more ominous - the former KGB home and Lubyanka Prison.

Red Square is also Lenin's final resting place - a wee bit of patience and queuing permits you a glance at Lenin's tomb itself.

Adjacent are the Kremlin's towers, cathedrals and palaces. To this finery, historic Beliy Gorod (White Town) is the surrounding medieval backdrop. Its main street, Tverskaya Ulitsa, is lined with palaces, 1930s architecture and glimmering church domes.

Culturists are spoilt for choice in Moscow, Tretyakov Gallery, with its staggering hoard of Russian art, and the great historical collections of the Pushkin Museum are spectacular.

You should also try to catch a performance by the legendary Bolshoi Ballet - even if you're not mad about men in tights, it's a unique and surprisingly affordable treat.

The ubiquitous workmen's cafés - of aluminium spoon and metal plate infamy -have been replaced in quick succession by cosmopolitan restaurants offering cuisine from across Russia and the globe.

The city centre is crammed with bars, and the nightlife is suitably outrageous.

Resist your urge to be independent and take a guided tour, for although English will get you by in the centre, you'll have more trouble negotiating your way around elsewhere.

That said, don't miss a ride on the metro - in this city, even the underground stations are works of art.