Tunis

In Tunisia's capital, the old holds hands with the new at almost every turn. At times Tunis has a pleasantly provincial ambience; at others it hums with all the bustle of a modern centre.

As you stand at the Bab el Bahr, the arched gateway separating the ancient Arab medina from the colonial French ville nouvelle, you may find yourself trying to recall exactly which continent you're in...

The medina is the historical hub of Tunis, dotted with mosques, mausoleums, museums and palaces. At its heart is Zitouna Mosque, Tunisia's largest, and the only one in the country which permits non-Muslims to have a look around.

Getting lost in the souks is essential, so dive bravely down alleys and emerge haphazardly in the Perfume-makers' Souk, the Weavers' Souk or perhaps the Souk of the Goldsmiths.

The 20th-century new town, on the other hand, is all about ambling leafy streets lined with dignified French buildings, and admiring the hotch-potch architecture of the Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul.

A trip to the suburbs is also a must, to visit the Bardo Museum, once the residence of kings but now home to the world's finest collection of Roman mosaics.

If you have time to explore further, rent a car and take a day trip to the famously pretty village of Sidi Bou Said, the ruins at Carthage, or the popular resort towns of Hammamet and Sousse.

Warm evenings, however, are tailor-made for fleeing with the locals by train to the town of La Goulette, famed for its first-rate fish restaurants.