Once called the 'Paris of the East', Bucharest is a bizarre hotchpotch of gorgeous old French architecture, neo-Romanian rarities, concrete eyesores and dilapidated remnants of a more graceful era.
Two earthquakes, World War II, Communism and the whims of Romania's megalomaniac ex-ruler, Ceausescu, did a fine job between them of destroying much of the city's charm and history - but explore a little, and you'll uncover exceptional treasures among the rough.
A wave of cosmopolitan new bars, restaurants, cafés and clubs in the historic centre is also propelling the city into the 21st century at breakneck speed. As long as you don't expect Western levels of infrastructure and a well-oiled tourism machine, Bucharest makes a fascinating - and easy on the pocket - city-break destination.
Among the myriad museums, churches, grand buildings and unusual sights dotted around the city, the Palace of Parliament is the most popular attraction. Intended to be the largest building in the world (although pipped to the post by the Pentagon), this is the centrepiece of the vast administrative HQ (predictably, Ceausescu's brainchild) whose creation required the razing of an entire district of historic houses and churches.
Other excellent stops include the Village Museum for its displays of Romanian folk architecture and the square of Piata Revolutiei, whose buildings still bear bullet marks from the uprising leading to Ceausescu's execution.
If you have the time to venture out of Bucharest, grab the opportunity. Mogosoaia Palace is less than 15km to the south, while the lakeside resort of Snagov, with its island and monastery, is only 40km to the north. Further northward, Sinaia offers gorgeous mountain scenery and 17th-century Peles Castle plus, in winter, skiing.
Horror buffs should head to the majestic Fagaras Mountains where they can trek to Poienari Castle - also known as Dracula's Castle...
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