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Laid out along a sweeping peninsula, and linked to surrounding islands by bridge or ferry, Helsinki might be a capital city but its soul is forever linked to the sea.
Its beautiful architecture - a pristine mix of 19th-century neo-classical and modern creations - populate airy cobblestone avenues which are never more than a stroll away from a blue bay.
The atmosphere is vibrant yet peaceful, affluent, friendly and just a touch quirky. Whether you enjoy it as a short break or the starting point of a Scandinavian adventure, the city makes a great introduction to Finland: kingdom of lakes, forests... and Santa Claus.
Although the Helsinki public transport system is excellent (city bicycles for hire included), most sights are easy to get to by foot.
The main thoroughfare is Mannerheimintie, running from north to south down most of the peninsula. To its east is Kauppatori, a festive market square at the harbour, where you can buy handicrafts and fresh produce, or watch the action over the Finns' favourite brew, coffee.
Good stops nearby include the Ateneum and Kiasma art museums, charming café-lined Esplanadi, Stockmann Department Store (Scandinavia's biggest), and the city's favourite church, super-modern Temppeliaukion Kirkko, built into cliffs.
There's more to see on neighbouring islands, too: the 18th-century Swedish fortress of Suomenlinna, the world's northernmost zoo on Korkeasaari, and olden-day Finland at the open-air museum on Seurasaari.
In summer, Helsinki enjoys up to 19 hours of sunshine a day - and the locals stay outside for most of it. The parks abound with parties and free live music events, and the streets buzz with outdoor cafés, food stalls and concerts. And, if you're lucky or clever enough to be there for the Juhannus (Midsummer) celebrations, you can experience Finnish festivities at their most exuberant. Kippis!