Naples

Poor old Naples. Not only has it lived under the volcanic shadow of Mount Vesuvius for 2,500 years, it's also had to put up with various aspersions on its very colourful character.

Italy's infamous third city has been variously described as scruffy, brash, overcrowded and polluted. While it may be all these things, it's also a corner of Italia autentica, or 'real Italy', brimming with Mediterranean passion - it's theatrical, proud, raucous, thrilling and a lot of fun.

Given its black sheep reputation, it comes as a pleasant surprise that Naples is in fact a beautiful and cultured city.

One of Naples' most important galleries, Museo e Gallerie di Capodimonte, is housed in a 18th century Bourbon royal palace, inside, the works are sublime, including canvases by Botticelli, Caravaggio and Titian.

For an astonishing account of neighbouring Pompeii and Herculaneum, head to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (National Archaeological Museum), which has spectacular finds from both sites.

Cultured days can be also be passed exploring the Neapolitan heritage in the Palazzo Real or Centro Storico (historic centre) - home to the baroque Duomo di San Gennaro, medieval churches, and winding streets festooned with washing flapping in the breeze like colourful carnival decorations.

A stylish night out can be spent at the Teatro San Carlo, Italy's largest opera house - though the locals may provide as much entertainment as the opera itself, with their endless chitchat, dramas and flamboyant style.

All Italians are madly passionate about food, and no more so than in Naples. Home to the humble pizza, Neapolitan gastronomy is quite simply unbeatable, and there are plenty of atmospheric family run restaurants where you can feast royally on wood-fired pizza.

Local food markets are an attraction worth visiting in themselves, with endless rows of delectably fresh seafood and, the local favourite, polpo (octopus).

If you need a bit of peace and quiet after a few days on the merry-go round that is Naples, the city is also the perfect starting point for leapfrogging to the nearby tranquil islands of Ischia, Prócida and Capri, and a short drive round the bay to Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast.