Mexico City

It's impossible to leave Mexico City feeling indifferent. You will either fall head over heels for the intriguing mix of poverty, luxury and energy, or be glad to leave one of the world's most polluted cities behind.

The size of a metropolis that is home to around 22 million people can be daunting, but one of the joys of Mexico City is that almost everything worthy of a tourist's time is located within a few neighbourhoods and can be explored on foot.

A good place to start is the Zócalo plaza, located in the Centro Histórico. It's fair to say there's never a dull moment in the world's second largest square, plus it boasts some centuries-old architecture created with stones from Aztec temples.

Spanning the square's east side is the Palacio Nacional (home to the Mexican president's offices), boasting impressive murals depicting the history of Mexico. To the north is an endearing lopsided cathedral that spent centuries sinking unevenly into the soft clay soil, and has only recently been saved by an ambitious restoration project.

Nearby is the excavated site of Templo Mayor, the centre of worship in the original Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán. Today, it houses a museum with over 3,000 pieces unearthed during the dig and others around the country. The centrepiece is an 8,000kg stone disc depicting the Aztec moon goddess Coyolxauhqui.

There's sophisticated shopping, eating and nightlife galore in Zona Rosa ('pink zone'), while the Paseo de la Reforma is an elegant avenue combining modern high-rise offices and colonial mansions with the city's top hotels, restaurants and stores.

If the hustle and bustle finally get the better of you, Chapultepec Park and its ancient forest, castle and renowned Anthropological Museum is a must. The floating gardens of Xochimilco create another of the city's few truly relaxing spots.

A short ride from the centre, the Teotihuácan pyramids defy belief - and your legs too if you attempt ascending them too quickly.