Casablanca

These days it's old-hat knowledge that not one scene of the 1942 classic Casablanca was actually shot in the city whose name it tried to trademark - the 'that's-exactly-where-Humphrey-Bogart-stood' type of holiday is a thing of the past.

As a tourist destination, Casablanca is also in the unfortunate position of being pitted against everyone's current favourite, Marrakesh. But don't be put off.

Morocco's largest city hides a fascinating past behind its busy, modern façade, and is an intriguing destination to explore in its own right. Besides, if you get restless, moving on is a doddle.

Founded in the 12th century, Casablanca has been a pirate refuge, a Portuguese fortress, an earthquake victim restored by the Arabs, and a colony of the French, who in the early 1900s decided to redesign it modelled on Marseilles.

At its heart is Place Mohammed V, a square flanked by airy boulevards and impressive Mauresque buildings, while to the north lies the ancient quarter, a labyrinth of alleys, whitewashed houses and tiny shops partly enclosed by a 16th-century wall.

To the west, on a promontory overlooking the Atlantic, looms Hassan II Mosque, one of the world's largest.

Thumbing its nose at landlocked Marrakesh, Casablanca has beaches stretching north to Mohammedia and south to El Jadida, or there's a host of 'beach clubs' in the suburb of Aïn Diab.

Dining is the best in Morocco, and nightlife, though not a big selling point, is there if you need it. So, if you really must perform your 'of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world' routine, you won't go home disappointed.