Against a skyline dominated by the glittering Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, the residents of the capital's Kampung Ayer live among the centuries-old web of waterways woven out of the Brunei River. In this sprawling collection of water villages, colourful homes, schools, police stations, markets, mosques and even fire stations stand on stilts in the water, while modern concrete blocks rise from the banks not far away.
Nicknamed the 'Abode of Peace', the small oil-rich sultanate of Brunei is a unique mix of traditional Islamic ways, showy modern developments, wild jungle and tamed coastal areas. It also makes for a restful and interesting stop if you're exploring Borneo, and the vast island that Brunei shares with Malaysia and Indonesia.
In the northeast of the country, surrounded by rivers & canals, you'll find the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan. On top of the jaw-dropping extravagance of its mosques and some excellent museums, you can also explore Kampung Ayer (water village), reputedly the world's largest conglomerations of stilt houses. Navigated by a jigsaw of wooden walkways, the colourful, interlinked villages stretch across the banks of Sungai Brunei & Sungai Kedyan and provide a fascinating glimpse into life on the water.
Within 10km from Bandar you'll also find good beaches, a large colony of proboscis monkeys at Pulau Ranggu and free theme park delights at Jerudong. Further afield, you can arrange a trip to the islands of Brunei Bay, take a river safari up the Belait River to visit forest dwellers, enjoy wildlife spotting at Tasek Berimbun (Brunei's largest lake) or hike the jungle canopied walkways of the Ulu Temburong National Park.
If you're too worn out by evening to paint the town red, don't feel bad. Nightlife is pretty much non-existent - and the nearest place offering alcohol is across the border in Malaysian Sarawak.
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