Grain by grain a loaf, stone by stone a castle, goes the old Yugoslavian saying about patience. It might be a while until Serbia and Montenegro - former Yugoslavia - is restored to the condition its house-proud citizens would like, but it's still a beautiful country to visit.
Traditional villages dot tranquil farmlands or are hidden in spectacular mountains, while the coastline curves around bays, beaches, old towns, and the world's southernmost fjord.
Having certainly been in the wars in the final decade of the 20th century, things have settled down, and Serbia and Montenegro has been removed from the UK Foreign Office's list of risky destinations (apart from the territory of Kosovo - where it's advisable to check the UK Foreign Office website prior to travel).
Today, having lost a lot of land during the conflicts, the country consists only of the provinces of - surprise, surprise - Serbia and Montenegro. Montenegro, to the southwest, is composed of lakes, craggy peaks, awe-inspiring Tara Canyon, and a long stretch of beaches along the Adriatic Sea, while northern Serbia has the winding River Danube, forest-draped mountains, rolling farmlands and the capital of Belgrade.
Belgrade makes a great city break with a difference, especially for those who like a good dash of historical charm with a splash of quirkiness and a zesty serving of nightlife. It's also very easy to mix culture and café society with some sun, sea and sand - just hop on an overnight train from the capital to the coast.
North of Belgrade is the still-bomb-scarred university city of Novi Sad: young, extremely friendly, and with a number of good museums and a grand old fortress. Otherwise, take to the countryside and get knee deep in accordion music, plum brandy and a spot of impromptu dancing.
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