From Toompea Castle, the silhouetted skyline of Estonia's capital; Tallinn, resembles a beginners attempt at the Cyrillic alphabet. Medieval towers sit next to onion-domed spires, sheltering a tangle of cobbled streets.
A few days spent exploring the old town on foot should take you through one thousand years of cosmopolitan history from Peter the Great, medieval drinking clubs and its Danish founders through to galleries, restaurants serving pork innards and bars called Ruby Tuesday.
While most Baltic States turned a monochrome grey under Russia's dominance, Estonia has emerged, post-independence, with a bit of spirit and life.
Parnu is a popular beach resort, but when the sun shines, most Estonians (and steadily increasing numbers of tourists) head for the island of Saaremaa to sunbathe amongst the glacial boulders and visit the windmills, or to the neighbouring island of Hiiumaa, with its forests, wolves and deer and quiet beaches.
Tourists will find food and accommodation here without difficulty, but be warned: while there are 1500 islands off the west coast, some are very quiet indeed. Much of the mainland is unpopulated and covered by dense forests and lakes.
The Lahema National Park protects some of Estonia's most pristine countryside, from rugged headlands fast-flowing rivers, waterfalls and generally impressive wilderness and camping country.
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