The view from the top of Mount Mtatsminda is vast, a sky-wide panorama snaked by the River Mtkvari with a throng of red roofs clinging to her curves. Draw closer to the river, and the old quarter blossoms into an alluring chapter of winding alleys, courtyards, monuments and fine architecture in the shape of centuries-old palaces, fortresses and churches.
Here and elsewhere in the 1500-year-old city, café society, theatre, dance and nightlife thrive among western, Asian and Turkish buildings - and bizarre Soviet statues... Russia it's not, however, not any more. It's Tbilisi, the cosmopolitan, cultural - and seasonally balmy capital of Georgia.
In fact, although Georgian history goes back some 3000 years, the country was only under Russian rule - on and off - since the 1800s. It has its own main language, Georgian, which is still written in ancient script with its unique alphabet. Today, autonomy restored and calm with it (with some exceptions (check with the UK Foreign Office for advice before you go), Georgia is one of Europe's charming, most unspoiled secrets.
Situated south of Russia and north of Turkey, and while it's somewhat of a challenge to get around the country due to the underdeveloped tourist infrastructure, it's well worth the effort.
The Georgian countryside is dramatically beautiful, with angular frosted mountains in the north, canyon-carved volcanic uplands in the south, and plains extending west to the Black Sea in between.
Plentiful though the sights are on Georgia's very lightly travelled tourist trail - the holy former capital Mtskheta, the spectacular Georgian Military Highway, and the cave monastery complex at Vardzia, to name but a few - one of the country's most fascinating features is the local ways. Mealtimes are punctuated by toasts, drinking, traditional song and more toasts - vexing, sometimes, for visitors, who can't wait to tuck into such legendary Georgian treats as khachapuri (thin cheesy pie), pkhali (spinach with walnut paste), and kharcho (spicy mutton soup). After all the salutations, you may need to sample the khashi broth the morning after - supposedly an excellent hangover remedy.
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