At the heart of Syria lies Damascus, and at the heart of Damascus is the old town, enclosed within a Roman wall. Damascus is the world's oldest inhabited city, dating back to around 5000 BC, where the ruins, relics, temples and mosques from a succession of invaders and religions lay over each other in layers.
All the history and culture is concentrated within a small space because of the river and oasis that made surviving here in the desert a possibility.
The Souk al Hamidiyeh is the place for haggling over inlaid mosaic boxes, nuts, watermelon seeds and nargilehs (hubbly bubbly pipes). A Roman archway leads from the souk to the Umayyad Mosque which has been a place of worship for 3000 years; first a temple to Hadad, the Aramean god of Sun and thunder, then to the Roman god Jupiter, a Christian cathedral and finally a mosque.
After a day exploring on foot, drive along the ridge at the foot of Mount Kassioum to see the dark calm descend over the city.
The whole country is a historian's delight. Crusader castles, fortresses, amphitheatres and the remains of cities are scattered across the rocky sand.
There are forested areas and thanks to innovative irrigation programmes, green areas and cotton fields around the Euphrates. Syria also has beaches for more traditional sun, sea and sand activities; the best are located near Latakia on the country's short Mediterranean coastline.
In stark contrast to the ancient cities of Damascus and Aleppo, Latakia, an industrial port city surrounded by tourist resorts, represents the modern Syria.
Contemporary Syria appears to be that rare creature that looks to the future while preserving the past.
Print >