Southwards, bohemian San Telmo dishes out a rich serving of porteño passion in its many tango bars. But for passion at its rawest nothing beats La Boca on match days. In this tough southern port barrio, home to Diego ´hand of God´ Maradona´sold team Boca Juniors, fútbol reigns supreme, and houses - and even trees - are painted the team colours.
The north is where rich Buenos Aires spends its time, in leafy Palermo with its trendy bars and restaurants, and in the grand mansions of plush Recoleta. Here you can also join the pilgrimage in the Cementerio de la Recoleta, a grand nec
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