The ubiquitous workmen´s cafés - of aluminium spoon and metal plate infamy -have been replaced in quick succession by cosmopolitan restaurants offering cuisine from across Russia and the globe.
The city centre is crammed with bars, and the nightlife is suitably outrageous.
Resist your urge to be independent and take a guided tour, for although English will get you by in the centre, you´ll have more trouble negotiating your way around elsewhere.
That said, don´t miss a ride on the metro - in this city, even the underground stations are works of art.
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